Rose Cantine

The best places to hang out in the Provence are the tiny hilltop villages unpopular with tour buses, probably because there are no parking lots and the streets are too narrow. If you’ve had it with Gordes and Roussillon, go to Lurs and Lacoste.

Lurs is close to the monastery of Ganagobie and is so tiny you’ll be able to walk around it in about 10 minutes. The views from the town onto the Durance Valley are spectacular, especially if you can combine it with a lunch at the local restaurant.

Lacoste (near Ménerbes) is known for the chateau of the Marquis de Sade’s family, which fell into disrepair over the last 200 years. The Marquis fled from Paris to the chateau in 1771 - his erotic writing might have been a bestseller in certain circles, but for many it was just too scandalous. Today he’d probably flee to the chateau to escape the media attention and the demands of the infernal publicity tour (and Oprah).

Fashion designer Pierre Cardin bought the chateau a few years ago and restored it (partially). He holds an annual opera festival there in the summer.

Restaurant recommendation for Lacoste: the Café de Sade is an excellent place to have lunch. It’s a small local restaurant run by the same family for years, very unpretentious but oh so delicious. I had the Daube Provençal which was marvelous. I will attempt to make this dish at home but in the autumn or winter, as it is a bit too warm to be cooking it right now.